Review
RESTAURANT MARRAKESH
Morocco - World Showcase - Epcot

by Debra Martin Koma
ALL EARS Senior Editor
July 2003

Returning to an old favorite is always fun, like visiting a long-time friend, and it had been too long since I'd had dinner at Restaurant Marrakesh, tucked way in the back of the Morocco pavilion in World Showcase. The menu hasn't changed substantially for quite some time, but I'm not complaining -- it's a fine representation of a variety of Middle Eastern delights.

Stepping into the dimly lit Marrakesh transports you at once to another time and place. Reminiscent of a sultan's castle with its marble pillars, intricately carved decorations, and plush carpeting, the atmosphere is at once exotic and luxurious.

Our pleasant server Bader started us off this visit with the Beef Brewat Rolls, layers of thin, phyllo-like pastry stuffed with seasoned ground beef, then fried and sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar ($5.95). The savory spices combine perfectly with the sweetness, making one think this could almost pass for a dessert. Other appetizers we've tried in the past, including the Chicken Bastilla ($5.95) and the Harira Soup ($4.25), a lamb, tomato and lentil concoction, have all shown the same quality.

Deciding on an entree was tough -- I very much enjoy most items I've tried on the menu, from the Shish Kebab (skewers of marinated beef marinated beef, $23.95) to the vegetarian Couscous (rolled semolina steamed and served with seasonal vegetables, $16.95). This night, however, I opted for a dish that has never disappointed, the Lemon Chicken ($18.95). The juicy braised half-chicken seasoned with garlic (and lots of it!), green olives and a hint of lemon, came falling off the bone tender. Try as I might to avoid it, I found myself picking it up
with my fingers and thinking to myself, "finger-lickin' good" -- it was that delicious. The other entree sampled, Roast Lamb Meshoui ($22.95) is another of my favorites. The large portion of lamb, slowly cooked in its own juices and seasoned simply with garlic, salt, pepper, and cumin, was tender and succulent, accompanied with fragrant almond-studded rice.

If you like a little entertainment with your meal, Marrakesh won't let you down. Near the top of most dining hours, musicians sporting fez, the traditional headgear of Moroccan men (think Sydney Greenstreet in the film "Casablanca") appear inconspicuously, then begin filling the air with the unusual rhythms of the country. Ten minutes into their performance, a beautiful belly dancer sashays into the room, with scarves swirling and finger cymbals ringing. She captivates diners with her graceful dances and beguiling smile, encouraging the children to join her in the central floor area. Watching the delight on their faces as they try to imitate her fluid movements is a show worth seeing. (Of course others in the audience might appreciate the belly dancer for other, less innocent, reasons.)

Portions here are so generous that neither my husband nor I had room for any of the enticing desserts, which ranged from another version of Bastilla, topped with vanilla cream and toasted almonds ($4.95), to two types of crepes: Crepes Atlas, apple crepes with cinnamon topped with ice cream and almonds for $5.95, and Crepes Casablanca with roasted almonds, cinnamon and honey topped with a scoop of ice cream for $4.95.

Next time. And there will be a next time.

Dinner for the two of us, including a carafe of the house red wine (a bargain at $15.50) was under $65 (tax and tip not included).

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